|2002 Boizel, Brut Millésimé $58
35% Chardonnay, 55% Pinot Noir,10% Pinot Meunier
Boizel is an undervalued gem in the world of Champagne. The Brut Millésimé is a excellent example. The wine reveals a wonderful aromatic complexity, fine and discreet floral notes, along with red fruits, honey, hazelnuts on a light citrus background. It has a refined texture, rich and concentrated with apricots, peach and toasted brioche. The finish is very long, elegant and fresh.
2006 Gimonnet, Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru, Cuvee Fleuron $70
Gimonnet’s Cuvee Fleuron shows just how much extended time on the lees (in this case 60 months) can shape a wine. It is the deep and textured with white peaches, mango and tropical fruits and almond notes that flesh out beautifully in the glass. It finishes impressively deep and very long.
2002 Hurbert Paulet Brut Premier Cru $50
40% Pinot Meunier, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir
Paulet sells half of his grapes to Billecart-Salmon and make the rest into his own wine. His 2002 has an apricot and wildflower bouquet and a good balance of citrus and mineral.
1998 Durmont, Blanc de Noir $80
100% Pinot Noir
The Dumont family estate is situated on 23 hectares in Champignol-lez-Mondeville, in a village in the southern Champagne region of the Aube. The 1998 was aged on its lees for 12 years before release. The wine has a creamy texture, tenderly embraced with acidity, nose of freshly macerated orchard fruit and deepened with honey, with light and long clean fresh apple skin and a lively and rich Meyer lemon finish.
2006 Moutard Cepage Arbane Vielles Vignes $95
Arbane is an old aromatic but virtually extinct variety from Southern Champagne with only two hectare planted. Moutard only produced 3525 bottles of this wine from their 55 year old vineyard. But the wine is not just an historic footnote. The wine drinks wonderfully. There are aromas of honey, toasted bread, roses, apples and pear compote, fresh citrus, plum, dried apricot, raisin, but also mango, a good minerality and a fabulous length on the palate.